The History of Berlin

Finally. This is the first entry I get to type for “our” blog. Just to be clear, Jason has been typing while I sit next to him and help recall the events of the day and how best to describe our adventures to all of you readers. (I feel the need to explain this, because most people have assumed this is Jason’s blog. He writes in first person and signs each entry with his name.) This has been the source of almost every one of our arguments so far, which I guess is a good thing – this means we are actually getting along and have not killed each other, yet!

Now, in all honesty, traveling with Jason has already exceeded my expectations. We have been learning from each other to appreciate our differences, thus allowing us to grow closer together. At the moment, for example, we are sitting on the train from Berlin to Dresden for a quick day trip. Jason is looking at the map and determining which sights to explore and how to move around Dresden. It is nice to sit back and let him take the reins for the first time. Up to this point, I have had to book the flights, arrange the train tickets, reserve the hostels, read the travel books, research the sights and night life, and organize how to travel around each city. I am passing the torch to my brother now! Most of you know that I am somewhat of a control-freak so I finally get to be the one to go with the flow and be spontaneous, while he gets to be the organizer. What a switch! At this instant, he is analyzing the map, taking notes in his pocket-size notebook, and struggling over how best to fit everything that interests us into one day. I, on the other hand, get to sit back, look out the window from our train at the lush German terrain, and tell him to just relax; we will see what we can. Now, this is the life (for me)!

Time to recap our experiences in Berlin before it gets too late.

(Wednesday, June 23, 2010)

When we arrived at the airport Wednesday night, we took the bus to our hostel, providing an easy way to see much of the landscape of Berlin. Gothic churches, glass skyscrapers, and18^th century libraries modeled after the Pantheon are only a few examples of the detailed and exquisite architecture present in Berlin. The city is bursting with culture and history. We couldn’t wait to explore all that the capital of Germany offers.

Our first night was pretty low key. After checking into Wombat’s Hostel on Rosa Luxemburg Strasse, we went straight to the bar with our roommates. We were able to meet other students or recently graduated travelers staying at our hostel. We have met people from all over the world, in particular Australia, Canada, and England, who have the same drive as us to experience life on the go, traveling to new places and immersing themselves into new environments.

(Thursday, June 24, 2010)

The next morning, we decided to start our day at the Wall Museum – House at Checkpoint Charlie. The museum told the story of the Berlin Wall by displaying images, testimonies, and paintings to represent the division of Berlin and the injustices done to its citizens. The Berlin Wall was a symbol of the division in Germany after World War II and also the Cold War between the East and the West. Constructed on August 13, 1961, the Berlin Wall divided the city for nearly 30 years, abusing human rights through the German Democratic Republic (GDR). The border of East Germany to West Berlin was 155 km long to prevent people from fleeing the GDR. It was not until November 9, 1989 that the wall was torn down, representing unification in Germany. Today, most of the former Berlin Wall has been built on or turned into parks. The exhibit opened my eyes to the separation and struggles felt in this country, ending only twenty years ago. We must reflect on the challenges faced around the world and learn from history. It is important to break down “walls” in order to create an understanding and acceptance of other cultures and backgrounds.

After a quick lunch and coffee break, we walked along the street where the Berlin Wall was once located until we reached our next stop -- Topography of Terror. Outside of the exhibit are remnants of the external basement walls of several buildings that became the headquarters of the “Inspectorate of Concentration Camps,” the “Reich SS Leadership,” including the SS Main Office, and several departments of the Gestapo starting in 1934. 200 meters of the Berlin Wall also remain at the request of the Topography of Terror, representing the border between the districts of Mitte (East Berlin) and Kreuzberg (West Berlin). Once inside the museum, we traveled through the history of the Reich Security Main Office of the SS, which was the organizational center of the majority of the Nazi regime’s crimes against humanity. Specifically, the “Topography of Terror” housed the national central headquarters of the Secret State Police (Gestapo), the Reich SS Leadership, the Security Service of the SS, and the Reich Security Main Office. The exhibit explains the rise of Hitler’s power, the creation of concentration camps, the use of Nazi propaganda, and the role Germany played in World War II. Berlin was the capital of the Third Reich, where the surveillance and persecution of those that the Nazi regime declared to be “enemies of the state and people” was managed. We explored deeper into the horrors of the “Final Solution to the Jewish Questions,” as well as the arrest and murder of political opponents of National Socialism, homosexuals, foreign prisoners of war, and forced laborers. The Topography of Terror informed us on the events that occurred at the exact place we stood. It was an emotional and powerful experience, and one that will remind me to be grateful every day for what I have and the freedom to be who I am.

From there, we walked to the Holocaust memorial, known as the “Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.” Designed by architect Peter Eisenman, the unusual and peaceful memorial consists of more than 2,700 concrete blocks along slanted ground. The memorial is dedicated in remembrance of the 6 million Jews who were killed in the Holocaust. It was quite powerful and beautiful in its simplicity.

We walked another block to the Brandenburger Tor (the Brandenburg Gate). Designed as a tribute to Athens’ Acropolis, the sandstone gateway stands tall as one of the city’s premier landmarks. Across the street was a food stand, where we ordered Berlin’s famous currywurst. It is basically a hot dog covered in curry powder and ketchup. It did not look like something I would enjoy (as fast food is not my usual go-to meal), but it was actually pretty tasty. We then walked over to Reichstag (the Parliament Building). On February 27, 1933, the building was burned down -- a pivotal event in the Third Reich history as new protection laws allowed for the Nazis to arrest their political opponents. I had hoped to climb the glass dome, however the line was too long, so we relaxed in the park in front of the building. It was nice to rest our feet, people-watch, and have good conversation. Shortly after continuing our walk, we saw Einstein Café, which I had read about in our travel book. We enjoyed a delicious apple strudel covered in powdered sugar and whipped cream and a large pot of mint tea before continuing our tour of Berlin.

Our final stop of the day was at Bebelplatz. Joseph Goebbels, the Nazi minister for propaganda and “public enlightenment,” organized a nation-wide book burning at this site on May 10, 1933. The books included works by Jews, pacifists, and Communists. It is a large square with only a subtle memorial in the center to mark where 20,000 books were burned. The memorial is a window on the ground of the square, providing a view into a library full of empty bookshelves.

Once we returned to our hostel after walking almost the entire stretch of the city, we rested for a few hours before heading out with our roommates for a night on the town. We went to a club called Weekend. Inside, mostly high-school aged people “danced” to techo music under a strobe light. It was not my scene to say the least. So we spent most of the night at the rooftop bar overlooking the skyline of Berlin. We met other people from our hostel and talked with them until sunrise at about 4:30 in the morning. Even though I was exhausted, taking in the city’s view at sunrise made the lack of sleep bearable. It was a long day, but one I will never forget!

(Friday, June 25, 2010)

After sleeping in, we woke up in need of food and coffee! We went to a relaxed bistro called “April” in the western downtown district of Berlin. We sat outside and enjoyed the best Weiner schnitzel – we had to try it in Germany. There was no food left on either of our plates. We then walked down Kurfurstendamm street, a broad boulevard full of energy and shoppers. This busy street led us to our next destination – “The Story of Berlin” museum. This multimedia museum travels through eight hundred years of Berlin’s development, from the first settlers in the Middle Ages to the Fall of the Berlin Wall. The modern museum features hands-on exhibits, film footage, and original artifacts to create a journey through the history of Berlin. Whether walking over a bridge of book-binding, representing Bebelpltz, or following the timeline of Hitler’s rise to power, it was truly fantastic the way each room in the museum allowed visitors to explore that period of time. To end the journey through Berlin’s past, we received a guided tour of the 1974 nuclear shelter from the Cold War. The bunker still has the capacity to hold almost 3,600 people. “The Story of Berlin” was informative, yet entertaining and imaginative, making it one of my favorite stops so far!

After spending hours exploring the history of Berlin, we came back to the hostel exhausted and in need of rest. We went to a 24-hour café, called Luigi Zuckeermann’s Traditional Gourmet Deli, for a midnight dinner. With our new friend Jason from our hostel, we went to a jazz bar, B-Flat, but spent more time at a lively bar called Neue Odessa Bar. Even though it was a slow night, we still did not fall asleep until after 2:30 a.m. As my brother continues to remind me, I guess there really is no time for sleep. I have had to learn to push through my narcolepsy in order to take full advantage of our time backpacking through Europe. So far, so good!

Berlin is rich in culture and history. The people of Berlin have witnessed tragedy and terror. Even after horrific events, such as its involvement in WWII and the Cold War, Berlin stands today as the strong capital of Germany. Berlin was the perfect city to start our journey through the history of Eastern Europe and our heritage.