I LOVE PRAGUE!

(Saturday, June 26, 2010)

First stop, our hostel -- St. Christopher’s at the Mosaic House. Usually young travelers stay in the inexpensive, dorm-style hostels that are scattered throughout most major European cities. Some can be shanties that barely have space for a backpack, let alone offer safety for them; others are differentiated from collegiate dorms only by the fact that there is a bar downstairs. St. Christopher’s hostel was nothing like this. Opening only three weeks ago, this 5-star lodging provides travelers with comfy beds and huge pillows, private luxury bathrooms, and a modern bar with giant screen TV’s to watch the World Cup. The friendly staff was informative and the hostel was centrally located, making all of Prague’s highlights within walking distance. The best part of our stay here was meeting our fantastic roommates, Jen and Jess. They are the type of people you feel like you have known forever even though you have only just met.

After a quick dinner of kebabs from across the street, we finished off a bottle of absinthe in our hostel room. Even though it involved broken glasses and a few burns on our hands, it was the start to a great night to say the least. We walked along River Vltava until we reached Karlovy Lazne, a five-story disco with everything from Michael Jackson to Deadmau5. The Jaeger bombs masked the fact that the ratio of males to females was about 20-to-1. The array of men, some with pink hair and mermaid costumes and others still in high school, added to the scene. It was a night to remember!

(Sunday, June 27, 2010)

Trying to wake up the next morning was a challenge, but we finally made it out in time for lunch and a full afternoon of sightseeing. We stopped at a local restaurant, u Bubenicku, to feast on true Czech cuisine -- goulash. After filling our stomachs with the heavy, yet delicious food, we set out across the Charles Bridge. This pedestrian walkway, which connects the Lesser Quarter with the Old Town, was buzzing with tourists in awe of the combination of Baroque saints and Gothic statues. Unfortunately, the bridge was under construction, making the tourist attraction even more crowded and somewhat claustrophobic. We hurried across to take in the spectacular view from another angle, underneath the bridge along the river.

Turning the corner, we found the Lennon Wall. Graffiti often defaces public property, however, the messages on the Lennon Wall did far from that. People from around the world left social and political messages full of hope and emotion. Whether it was a simple peace sign or famous Beatles’ lyrics, the Lennon Wall was a powerful form of modern art and expression.

From there, we walked through a maze of side streets until we reached the New Castle Steps, which seemed to never stop. The breathtaking view from the top of the giant “staircase” made the hike worthwhile. After making funny faces at the guards and learning (the hard way) that they do not like to be touched, we entered the Prague Castle. At the center of the castle grounds stood St. Vitus Cathedral, towering high above Prague’s collection of palaces and courtyards. Inside light seeped through the colorful stained glass windows, highlighting the Gothic cathedral’s interior. It was stunning.

After making the trek back down the steps, we walked over to the Franz Kafka Museum. Although small, the eerie exhibit perfectly reflected Kafka’s tormented mind. Dark halls lit with red lights ended with floor-to-ceiling mirrors or simply led to nowhere at all. Ominous music, like something out of a Hitchcock film, added further to the uncomfortable effect. The museum made it clear how tortured the author really was.

From there, we strolled along the river toward our hostel, stopping only to take pictures. Women lounged in boats while the men paddled toward the riverbank. Students marched through the ancient streets of Prague fighting for free university education. The city streets buzzed with activity while the parks offered a quiet escape. No camera can capture the magic of Prague.

Once we reached our hostel, what I thought was only allergies had turned into a head cold. I decided that the “sleep is for the weak” rule of traveling was not going to cut it and I needed a solid night’s rest. Jason, on the other hand, was able to make it out with our roommates and some other travelers from our hostel. After walking down different sets of stairs, each one leading to another bar below street-level, they finally reached the lowest floor of U Sudu, an old army bunker turned pub where shots of Prague’s “moonshine” are served and foosball tournaments take place. Even though I missed a fun night out, I would not have traded a good night’s sleep for anything.

(Monday, June 28, 2010)

5:00 PM -- time to wake up and get “breakfast.” Jess and Jen joined us for food and a walk around Old Town Square, where tourists and locals alike came together to watch the World Cup on giant projector screens in the middle of the square. At the top of the hour, mechanical figures danced inside the astronomical clock while a medieval-dressed trumpet player blew his horn. Walking across the square, we stumbled upon a Salvador Dali exhibit where we spent an hour reflecting on his bent reality. A short walk through Old Town led us to the Jewish Quarter, where we peaked into store windows and respectfully paused at the Old Jewish Cemetery.

Just north of Old Town and across the Vltava River lies Letna Park, situated on a hill overlooking the city. After making friends with slack-liners in the park, we made our way to the Letna beer garden for a pint of Pilsner, good conversation and the stunning view of Prague. As the sun began to set, the bustling city below turned quiet and the ancient buildings faded into mere outlines of castles and cathedrals.

While laughing and drinking with our roommates, we came across a table of “locals.” Photography students from the University of Texas were studying in Prague and we just happened to stumble upon their table. Each camera was automatically in position as the sunset illuminated the city below us. Jason connected with their artistic perspectives on the city, while I enjoyed reminiscing about Austin. It was the start to our favorite night so far.

We decided to meet back up with our new friends around midnight at U Sudu (so I could experience the “bunker bar”). On our way out of the hostel, we gathered more travelers and together, our large group explored the city after dark until 5:00 in the morning. We ventured to other bars, like Chateau Rouge and Roxy, but the real thrill of the night was not the drinking and dancing; it was the good conversation and the memories we created with our new friends. While it sounds corny, it will always be a night we look back on and smile. We still look at each other and say, “I love Prague.”

A Day in Dresden

Anyone who has read Kurt Vonnegut knows about the small German town of Dresden. Almost without fail, he manages to give some credit to this village in all of his novels. I guess being present while the “cultural capital” of Germany is nearly leveled during a WWII British air raid is one of those life events you want to tell people about. Unfortunately, only Americans and Englishmen look for the site where Slaughterhouse 5 was actually located, so the Germans will give you confused looks if you ask where to find it. It is only a 45-minute walk away from the #11 bus Magdeburger stop to get you to the Ostagehege that dominates the former POW camp, home of the Slaughterhouse 5. Morgan and I found the site and took pictures as each of us climbed on a statue of a pig being butchered as homage to the late author we love so much. Since WWII, Dresden has made a full recovery and is really a cool place to visit…if you get the chance.

Dresden was probably the best transition from powerful, informative Berlin to Prague, the city called “the new Amsterdam.” Separated by the Elbe River, Neustadt (New Town) and Altstadt (Old Town) seem to be of different worlds. Spiked belts and dyed black hair are on every post-punk local as they walk in and out of record shops, head shops, pubs and cafés. Imagine if Williamsburg, Brooklyn suddenly became obsessed with the Dead Kennedys and crammed it all into 20-square blocks and you wouldn’t be too far off from new town Dresden. The only thing lacking for the young punk or 25-year-old hipster is a bar that serves you after midnight.

Trying to decide where and what to eat is probably the hardest part of Neustadt. Bautzner Tor is an original GDR-style pub that takes you back to Communism behind the Berlin Wall. On the sweeter side, Teegadrom is a cozy teahouse where you can snuggle into a sofa while you read and sip. Café Combo is the better choice for a poppier, more alive drink. This 70’s style café seats you in chair probably stolen from Austin Powers’ house with cushions emblazoned with authentic Lucky Strike logos while locals stroll past the opened floor to ceiling windows.

To get a real feel for what Neustadt stands for, go through the alleyway between Alaunstrasse and Gorlitzer Strasse to look at what they call simply “Arty Backyard.” Bright yellow and pink walls are covered with alligators, giraffes, monkeys and plenty of other animals (sometimes blowing kisses at each other). When the Wall fell, Dresdeners crossed to the Western side to buy different colored paints that were unavailable for so many years under Communist rule. The result of decades of suppressed imagination, Neustadt has more than made up for its lost time.

Altstadt is almost a complete 180! The wild hair-dos and blaring music slow down across the Elbe as tourists flood the Theaterplatz while medieval attired guides show off the historic 13^th century district. As far as sightseeing goes, this area is a must! The Semper Opera House, the Prince’s Armory Collection, the Nymphs Bath, the Green Vault and the Royal Zwinger are all located within 50 meters of each other. Within each of these extravagant buildings can be found different treasures. The Opera house still holds performances on a regular basis; over 10,000 weapons lie on display in the Prince’s Armory, and the largest rare gem in the world is home in the Green vault.

You could spend days in Dresden and not have enough history, culture, food or fun.