I LOVE PRAGUE!

(Saturday, June 26, 2010)

First stop, our hostel -- St. Christopher’s at the Mosaic House. Usually young travelers stay in the inexpensive, dorm-style hostels that are scattered throughout most major European cities. Some can be shanties that barely have space for a backpack, let alone offer safety for them; others are differentiated from collegiate dorms only by the fact that there is a bar downstairs. St. Christopher’s hostel was nothing like this. Opening only three weeks ago, this 5-star lodging provides travelers with comfy beds and huge pillows, private luxury bathrooms, and a modern bar with giant screen TV’s to watch the World Cup. The friendly staff was informative and the hostel was centrally located, making all of Prague’s highlights within walking distance. The best part of our stay here was meeting our fantastic roommates, Jen and Jess. They are the type of people you feel like you have known forever even though you have only just met.

After a quick dinner of kebabs from across the street, we finished off a bottle of absinthe in our hostel room. Even though it involved broken glasses and a few burns on our hands, it was the start to a great night to say the least. We walked along River Vltava until we reached Karlovy Lazne, a five-story disco with everything from Michael Jackson to Deadmau5. The Jaeger bombs masked the fact that the ratio of males to females was about 20-to-1. The array of men, some with pink hair and mermaid costumes and others still in high school, added to the scene. It was a night to remember!

(Sunday, June 27, 2010)

Trying to wake up the next morning was a challenge, but we finally made it out in time for lunch and a full afternoon of sightseeing. We stopped at a local restaurant, u Bubenicku, to feast on true Czech cuisine -- goulash. After filling our stomachs with the heavy, yet delicious food, we set out across the Charles Bridge. This pedestrian walkway, which connects the Lesser Quarter with the Old Town, was buzzing with tourists in awe of the combination of Baroque saints and Gothic statues. Unfortunately, the bridge was under construction, making the tourist attraction even more crowded and somewhat claustrophobic. We hurried across to take in the spectacular view from another angle, underneath the bridge along the river.

Turning the corner, we found the Lennon Wall. Graffiti often defaces public property, however, the messages on the Lennon Wall did far from that. People from around the world left social and political messages full of hope and emotion. Whether it was a simple peace sign or famous Beatles’ lyrics, the Lennon Wall was a powerful form of modern art and expression.

From there, we walked through a maze of side streets until we reached the New Castle Steps, which seemed to never stop. The breathtaking view from the top of the giant “staircase” made the hike worthwhile. After making funny faces at the guards and learning (the hard way) that they do not like to be touched, we entered the Prague Castle. At the center of the castle grounds stood St. Vitus Cathedral, towering high above Prague’s collection of palaces and courtyards. Inside light seeped through the colorful stained glass windows, highlighting the Gothic cathedral’s interior. It was stunning.

After making the trek back down the steps, we walked over to the Franz Kafka Museum. Although small, the eerie exhibit perfectly reflected Kafka’s tormented mind. Dark halls lit with red lights ended with floor-to-ceiling mirrors or simply led to nowhere at all. Ominous music, like something out of a Hitchcock film, added further to the uncomfortable effect. The museum made it clear how tortured the author really was.

From there, we strolled along the river toward our hostel, stopping only to take pictures. Women lounged in boats while the men paddled toward the riverbank. Students marched through the ancient streets of Prague fighting for free university education. The city streets buzzed with activity while the parks offered a quiet escape. No camera can capture the magic of Prague.

Once we reached our hostel, what I thought was only allergies had turned into a head cold. I decided that the “sleep is for the weak” rule of traveling was not going to cut it and I needed a solid night’s rest. Jason, on the other hand, was able to make it out with our roommates and some other travelers from our hostel. After walking down different sets of stairs, each one leading to another bar below street-level, they finally reached the lowest floor of U Sudu, an old army bunker turned pub where shots of Prague’s “moonshine” are served and foosball tournaments take place. Even though I missed a fun night out, I would not have traded a good night’s sleep for anything.

(Monday, June 28, 2010)

5:00 PM -- time to wake up and get “breakfast.” Jess and Jen joined us for food and a walk around Old Town Square, where tourists and locals alike came together to watch the World Cup on giant projector screens in the middle of the square. At the top of the hour, mechanical figures danced inside the astronomical clock while a medieval-dressed trumpet player blew his horn. Walking across the square, we stumbled upon a Salvador Dali exhibit where we spent an hour reflecting on his bent reality. A short walk through Old Town led us to the Jewish Quarter, where we peaked into store windows and respectfully paused at the Old Jewish Cemetery.

Just north of Old Town and across the Vltava River lies Letna Park, situated on a hill overlooking the city. After making friends with slack-liners in the park, we made our way to the Letna beer garden for a pint of Pilsner, good conversation and the stunning view of Prague. As the sun began to set, the bustling city below turned quiet and the ancient buildings faded into mere outlines of castles and cathedrals.

While laughing and drinking with our roommates, we came across a table of “locals.” Photography students from the University of Texas were studying in Prague and we just happened to stumble upon their table. Each camera was automatically in position as the sunset illuminated the city below us. Jason connected with their artistic perspectives on the city, while I enjoyed reminiscing about Austin. It was the start to our favorite night so far.

We decided to meet back up with our new friends around midnight at U Sudu (so I could experience the “bunker bar”). On our way out of the hostel, we gathered more travelers and together, our large group explored the city after dark until 5:00 in the morning. We ventured to other bars, like Chateau Rouge and Roxy, but the real thrill of the night was not the drinking and dancing; it was the good conversation and the memories we created with our new friends. While it sounds corny, it will always be a night we look back on and smile. We still look at each other and say, “I love Prague.”

A Day in Dresden

Anyone who has read Kurt Vonnegut knows about the small German town of Dresden. Almost without fail, he manages to give some credit to this village in all of his novels. I guess being present while the “cultural capital” of Germany is nearly leveled during a WWII British air raid is one of those life events you want to tell people about. Unfortunately, only Americans and Englishmen look for the site where Slaughterhouse 5 was actually located, so the Germans will give you confused looks if you ask where to find it. It is only a 45-minute walk away from the #11 bus Magdeburger stop to get you to the Ostagehege that dominates the former POW camp, home of the Slaughterhouse 5. Morgan and I found the site and took pictures as each of us climbed on a statue of a pig being butchered as homage to the late author we love so much. Since WWII, Dresden has made a full recovery and is really a cool place to visit…if you get the chance.

Dresden was probably the best transition from powerful, informative Berlin to Prague, the city called “the new Amsterdam.” Separated by the Elbe River, Neustadt (New Town) and Altstadt (Old Town) seem to be of different worlds. Spiked belts and dyed black hair are on every post-punk local as they walk in and out of record shops, head shops, pubs and cafés. Imagine if Williamsburg, Brooklyn suddenly became obsessed with the Dead Kennedys and crammed it all into 20-square blocks and you wouldn’t be too far off from new town Dresden. The only thing lacking for the young punk or 25-year-old hipster is a bar that serves you after midnight.

Trying to decide where and what to eat is probably the hardest part of Neustadt. Bautzner Tor is an original GDR-style pub that takes you back to Communism behind the Berlin Wall. On the sweeter side, Teegadrom is a cozy teahouse where you can snuggle into a sofa while you read and sip. Café Combo is the better choice for a poppier, more alive drink. This 70’s style café seats you in chair probably stolen from Austin Powers’ house with cushions emblazoned with authentic Lucky Strike logos while locals stroll past the opened floor to ceiling windows.

To get a real feel for what Neustadt stands for, go through the alleyway between Alaunstrasse and Gorlitzer Strasse to look at what they call simply “Arty Backyard.” Bright yellow and pink walls are covered with alligators, giraffes, monkeys and plenty of other animals (sometimes blowing kisses at each other). When the Wall fell, Dresdeners crossed to the Western side to buy different colored paints that were unavailable for so many years under Communist rule. The result of decades of suppressed imagination, Neustadt has more than made up for its lost time.

Altstadt is almost a complete 180! The wild hair-dos and blaring music slow down across the Elbe as tourists flood the Theaterplatz while medieval attired guides show off the historic 13^th century district. As far as sightseeing goes, this area is a must! The Semper Opera House, the Prince’s Armory Collection, the Nymphs Bath, the Green Vault and the Royal Zwinger are all located within 50 meters of each other. Within each of these extravagant buildings can be found different treasures. The Opera house still holds performances on a regular basis; over 10,000 weapons lie on display in the Prince’s Armory, and the largest rare gem in the world is home in the Green vault.

You could spend days in Dresden and not have enough history, culture, food or fun.

The History of Berlin

Finally. This is the first entry I get to type for “our” blog. Just to be clear, Jason has been typing while I sit next to him and help recall the events of the day and how best to describe our adventures to all of you readers. (I feel the need to explain this, because most people have assumed this is Jason’s blog. He writes in first person and signs each entry with his name.) This has been the source of almost every one of our arguments so far, which I guess is a good thing – this means we are actually getting along and have not killed each other, yet!

Now, in all honesty, traveling with Jason has already exceeded my expectations. We have been learning from each other to appreciate our differences, thus allowing us to grow closer together. At the moment, for example, we are sitting on the train from Berlin to Dresden for a quick day trip. Jason is looking at the map and determining which sights to explore and how to move around Dresden. It is nice to sit back and let him take the reins for the first time. Up to this point, I have had to book the flights, arrange the train tickets, reserve the hostels, read the travel books, research the sights and night life, and organize how to travel around each city. I am passing the torch to my brother now! Most of you know that I am somewhat of a control-freak so I finally get to be the one to go with the flow and be spontaneous, while he gets to be the organizer. What a switch! At this instant, he is analyzing the map, taking notes in his pocket-size notebook, and struggling over how best to fit everything that interests us into one day. I, on the other hand, get to sit back, look out the window from our train at the lush German terrain, and tell him to just relax; we will see what we can. Now, this is the life (for me)!

Time to recap our experiences in Berlin before it gets too late.

(Wednesday, June 23, 2010)

When we arrived at the airport Wednesday night, we took the bus to our hostel, providing an easy way to see much of the landscape of Berlin. Gothic churches, glass skyscrapers, and18^th century libraries modeled after the Pantheon are only a few examples of the detailed and exquisite architecture present in Berlin. The city is bursting with culture and history. We couldn’t wait to explore all that the capital of Germany offers.

Our first night was pretty low key. After checking into Wombat’s Hostel on Rosa Luxemburg Strasse, we went straight to the bar with our roommates. We were able to meet other students or recently graduated travelers staying at our hostel. We have met people from all over the world, in particular Australia, Canada, and England, who have the same drive as us to experience life on the go, traveling to new places and immersing themselves into new environments.

(Thursday, June 24, 2010)

The next morning, we decided to start our day at the Wall Museum – House at Checkpoint Charlie. The museum told the story of the Berlin Wall by displaying images, testimonies, and paintings to represent the division of Berlin and the injustices done to its citizens. The Berlin Wall was a symbol of the division in Germany after World War II and also the Cold War between the East and the West. Constructed on August 13, 1961, the Berlin Wall divided the city for nearly 30 years, abusing human rights through the German Democratic Republic (GDR). The border of East Germany to West Berlin was 155 km long to prevent people from fleeing the GDR. It was not until November 9, 1989 that the wall was torn down, representing unification in Germany. Today, most of the former Berlin Wall has been built on or turned into parks. The exhibit opened my eyes to the separation and struggles felt in this country, ending only twenty years ago. We must reflect on the challenges faced around the world and learn from history. It is important to break down “walls” in order to create an understanding and acceptance of other cultures and backgrounds.

After a quick lunch and coffee break, we walked along the street where the Berlin Wall was once located until we reached our next stop -- Topography of Terror. Outside of the exhibit are remnants of the external basement walls of several buildings that became the headquarters of the “Inspectorate of Concentration Camps,” the “Reich SS Leadership,” including the SS Main Office, and several departments of the Gestapo starting in 1934. 200 meters of the Berlin Wall also remain at the request of the Topography of Terror, representing the border between the districts of Mitte (East Berlin) and Kreuzberg (West Berlin). Once inside the museum, we traveled through the history of the Reich Security Main Office of the SS, which was the organizational center of the majority of the Nazi regime’s crimes against humanity. Specifically, the “Topography of Terror” housed the national central headquarters of the Secret State Police (Gestapo), the Reich SS Leadership, the Security Service of the SS, and the Reich Security Main Office. The exhibit explains the rise of Hitler’s power, the creation of concentration camps, the use of Nazi propaganda, and the role Germany played in World War II. Berlin was the capital of the Third Reich, where the surveillance and persecution of those that the Nazi regime declared to be “enemies of the state and people” was managed. We explored deeper into the horrors of the “Final Solution to the Jewish Questions,” as well as the arrest and murder of political opponents of National Socialism, homosexuals, foreign prisoners of war, and forced laborers. The Topography of Terror informed us on the events that occurred at the exact place we stood. It was an emotional and powerful experience, and one that will remind me to be grateful every day for what I have and the freedom to be who I am.

From there, we walked to the Holocaust memorial, known as the “Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.” Designed by architect Peter Eisenman, the unusual and peaceful memorial consists of more than 2,700 concrete blocks along slanted ground. The memorial is dedicated in remembrance of the 6 million Jews who were killed in the Holocaust. It was quite powerful and beautiful in its simplicity.

We walked another block to the Brandenburger Tor (the Brandenburg Gate). Designed as a tribute to Athens’ Acropolis, the sandstone gateway stands tall as one of the city’s premier landmarks. Across the street was a food stand, where we ordered Berlin’s famous currywurst. It is basically a hot dog covered in curry powder and ketchup. It did not look like something I would enjoy (as fast food is not my usual go-to meal), but it was actually pretty tasty. We then walked over to Reichstag (the Parliament Building). On February 27, 1933, the building was burned down -- a pivotal event in the Third Reich history as new protection laws allowed for the Nazis to arrest their political opponents. I had hoped to climb the glass dome, however the line was too long, so we relaxed in the park in front of the building. It was nice to rest our feet, people-watch, and have good conversation. Shortly after continuing our walk, we saw Einstein Café, which I had read about in our travel book. We enjoyed a delicious apple strudel covered in powdered sugar and whipped cream and a large pot of mint tea before continuing our tour of Berlin.

Our final stop of the day was at Bebelplatz. Joseph Goebbels, the Nazi minister for propaganda and “public enlightenment,” organized a nation-wide book burning at this site on May 10, 1933. The books included works by Jews, pacifists, and Communists. It is a large square with only a subtle memorial in the center to mark where 20,000 books were burned. The memorial is a window on the ground of the square, providing a view into a library full of empty bookshelves.

Once we returned to our hostel after walking almost the entire stretch of the city, we rested for a few hours before heading out with our roommates for a night on the town. We went to a club called Weekend. Inside, mostly high-school aged people “danced” to techo music under a strobe light. It was not my scene to say the least. So we spent most of the night at the rooftop bar overlooking the skyline of Berlin. We met other people from our hostel and talked with them until sunrise at about 4:30 in the morning. Even though I was exhausted, taking in the city’s view at sunrise made the lack of sleep bearable. It was a long day, but one I will never forget!

(Friday, June 25, 2010)

After sleeping in, we woke up in need of food and coffee! We went to a relaxed bistro called “April” in the western downtown district of Berlin. We sat outside and enjoyed the best Weiner schnitzel – we had to try it in Germany. There was no food left on either of our plates. We then walked down Kurfurstendamm street, a broad boulevard full of energy and shoppers. This busy street led us to our next destination – “The Story of Berlin” museum. This multimedia museum travels through eight hundred years of Berlin’s development, from the first settlers in the Middle Ages to the Fall of the Berlin Wall. The modern museum features hands-on exhibits, film footage, and original artifacts to create a journey through the history of Berlin. Whether walking over a bridge of book-binding, representing Bebelpltz, or following the timeline of Hitler’s rise to power, it was truly fantastic the way each room in the museum allowed visitors to explore that period of time. To end the journey through Berlin’s past, we received a guided tour of the 1974 nuclear shelter from the Cold War. The bunker still has the capacity to hold almost 3,600 people. “The Story of Berlin” was informative, yet entertaining and imaginative, making it one of my favorite stops so far!

After spending hours exploring the history of Berlin, we came back to the hostel exhausted and in need of rest. We went to a 24-hour café, called Luigi Zuckeermann’s Traditional Gourmet Deli, for a midnight dinner. With our new friend Jason from our hostel, we went to a jazz bar, B-Flat, but spent more time at a lively bar called Neue Odessa Bar. Even though it was a slow night, we still did not fall asleep until after 2:30 a.m. As my brother continues to remind me, I guess there really is no time for sleep. I have had to learn to push through my narcolepsy in order to take full advantage of our time backpacking through Europe. So far, so good!

Berlin is rich in culture and history. The people of Berlin have witnessed tragedy and terror. Even after horrific events, such as its involvement in WWII and the Cold War, Berlin stands today as the strong capital of Germany. Berlin was the perfect city to start our journey through the history of Eastern Europe and our heritage.

Phase 1 complete, Next stop Berlin! (3 days late)

England is beating Slovenia 1-0 and the beer is draining faster and faster.

If England wins then the chances of a U.S. advance become that much more slim. At least the English fans in Heathrow Airport’s Tin Goose Pub are happy. Being at Heathrow means we have left Morocco and have started our European tour. A five-hour London layover separates us from our first stop…Berlin!

Honestly, the start to our trip could not have been any better! As we hope you have read so far, it’s been great, but there are a few more events to fill in. Yesterday started at nine in the morning with a new tour guide and more traditional form of transportation…mules. Now, I’m the type of guy who likes to get dirty, sleep in the mud and really challenge myself, but riding that beast was one of the more uncomfortable things I’ve done. The stirrups were too short and not attached to the saddle, so they slid every time we tried adjusting our feet. (At one point I think I lost all feeling to my toes).

The thin rags that acted as the saddle didn’t provide hardly any padding as we trekked up and down our rocky path. We were all rubbing our backs this morning.

But don’t get me wrong; it was still a great experience. Exploring the mountainous desert was a sight our photos couldn’t do justice in describing. Unlike the sands of Utah or California, there were trees and shrubs scattered across the terrain that added a green tint to the yellow-orange ground. Mountain peaks erupted through the clouds to such heights that snow capped their tops. Traveling through brought us to a Berber village made of mud-concrete and wood roofs. Locals filled our stomachs with lamb tagine, couscous and flat bread. Then trying to take pictures of the chef and her helpers ended with angry words we couldn’t understand and wagged fingers. Fortunately, Mom and I have fast trigger fingers and got a few shots off.

We spent our final night reminiscing about how fun the week was, enjoying what Richard Branson’s staff prepared for our dinners (fried pigeon cakes and pan-seared sea bream; absolutely exquisite…of course) and toasting to the first family trip we could all make since 2007. Since our departure flights required a five am wake-up call, bed came shortly after dinner.

Morocco was a totally unique experience in what felt like a different world, but now it’s time to be back in the Western world and hop around Europe for a few weeks. Sometimes, life is good!

Our Escape to the Atlas Mountains

(Pictures coming soon)

Damnit, I always knew Morgan and I were strong-willed, but it’s like clash of the titans when we try and write this blog. Not to mention, finding Internet in the desert is almost as difficult as us agreeing on what to include. Well it’s 12:45 in the morning and we’re going to try and knock this out as fast a possible so we get a good night’s sleep before our donkey ride at 9:45 tomorrow.

(Saturday, June 19, 2010)

Backtracking a few days, our last day in Marrakech was a leisurely one, yet still full of adventure. Our morning began by escaping the busy city borders to relax in the Jardin Majorelle. Recently restored by Yves Saint Laurent, the garden was the living project of French painter Jacques Majorelle since he acquired the property in 1924. It is really quite stunning how plant life representing five different continents can blossom in the middle of a desert.

A light vegetarian meal was waiting for us at our Riad once we made it “home.” It was quite the reprieve from all the red meat we had been loading up on, but we still needed our protein. Ryan and I led the way into the market square to brave the boiled goat’s head and brains. Mom and Morgan snapped pictures while we found that meat is meat as long as the seasonings are right. While I wouldn’t recommend it, goat’s head kind of tastes like beef ribs; brains taste like you would expect them (try not to use your imagination with this one).

After our “tasty” appetizer, it was time for our final dinner in Marrakech. Looking back on it, the whole day revolved around eating. Couscous with lamb and vegetables was brought out in a tagine and set in the middle of the table for us to dine like authentic locals. With spoons in hand, we dug in.

Our friend and city escort Hesham then prepared Ryan’s new hookah for us to smoke on the terrace. We took turns passing around the hose and laughing at Morgan fight back coughs from her first tobacco smoke. The night ended with us relaxing under the stars of Marrakech.

(Sunday, June 20, 2010)

There was one last breakfast on the roof before the off-road journey to La Pause, an actual oasis. Berber meals were served in bivouacs and lodging was a three-bedroom adobe house lit only by candles. Camel-rides into the desert only made our stay that much more authentic. Two-toed and massive, these giant animals made the ride as bumpy as their backs. Staying in this hideaway felt as if we had transported back through time. The sun set behind distant mountains as we watched the stars appear in the night’s sky. Instead of retiring to our beds, Ryan and I slept outside with the dogs.

(Monday, June 21, 2010)

This is where the relaxation really set in. Less than two hours away, we climbed into the High Atlas Mountains. Berber villages pasted by until we reached Sir Richard Branson’s Moroccan retreat Kasbah Tamadot. This place is truly breathtaking. Layers of mountain peaks reach up through the clouds to the west. The pathway from our private villa is lined with candles, which led us to an open-air dining area overlooking the pool. A Berber feast awaited us, with of a variety of tagines (lamb, fish, chicken, beef) and vegetarian salads. It was exquisite!

I want to be Richard Branson when I grow up.

Arriving in Morocco

(Two days worth)

Loaded with full camping backpacks and an eager, younger brother, we began our journey. The 23 hours it took to get us to Morocco were filled with excitement and a 7-hour layover in Paris, my favorite city in the world. There was only enough time for one stop, and I insisted it be at the Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise to say hello to an old friend. My hero and idol, Jim Morrison of The Doors, rests in this famous cemetery. After hopping the gates surrounding his grave to take a picture with the Lizard King, we grabbed a quick Parisian lunch and headed to the city's other airport for the last leg of our flight to Morocco. I couldn't imagine a better start to our adventure.

We finally made it to Morocco after 23 hours of traveling! To the sedentary reader, this country is a complete change compared to the fast-paced, western world in which we live. By walking into Djemaa el-Fna, the main square and open air theatre of Marrakech, you are surrounded by the sensation of new smells and sights almost unheard of in the United States. Rass El Hanout, the most popular of Moroccan spices consisting of a strong cumin scent and 34 other herbs, is completely dominating and cooked in with almost every exotic delicacy. Our mother kept us from trying the sheep's head, but there's still tomorrow. However, the boiled snails were quite delicious. Walking by the food tents, vendors called for us to stop at their stand promising better provisions than either of their neighbor chefs, although each had the same menu, price and number of customers.

Adjacent to the dining area was a carnival of monkey-tamers, snake-charmers, cross-dressing belly dancers, and a troupe of South African performers that were truly mystifying. Unfortunately, to take pictures of each of these "carnies" meant we had to tip them or be prepared for a fight. Five times a day, calls to prayer (adhan) come from the top of the minaret at the Koutoubia Mosque, which can be heard throughout the surrounding area. A bar above the square provided a great view of the sunset over all the hustle that took place below. As the sky darkened, lights popped on at every vendor and the party did not end until midnight, although we retired long beforehand.

When we came back to our riad (Arabic for house), a candlelit table had already been set in the middle of the courtyard and a traditional moroccan dinner was prepared for us. A starter course consisted of aubergine (eggplant), baked cauliflower, and green beans with pesto. Tajine chicken with lemon, olives and potatoes (dujaj mqalli bil hamd markd wa zeetoun) came next. Tajine is a Moroccan stew cooked in a conical, terra cotta pot. For dessert, we had sweet melon and the standard Moroccan mint tea.

As we have come to find, tea is very important to this culture. It is served at each private gathering as a sign of respect to visitors. The customary Moroccan tea is any green tea brewed over a low flame then adding a large handful of fresh mint. As our guide Abdula told us, it is prepared in front of guests and served with a large block of sugar that you hammer into pieces. How the tea is poured also holds significance. Starting low, the server lifts the kettle high above the glass to make sure bubbles form on top of the liquid, confirming that it is good tea. Pouring in this manner is also symbolic of the earth, sky and rain. Earth being the glass, sky being the kettle and the tea is the rain giving life.

Today, our second day in Marakech, took us through the labyrinth of small alleyways making up the heart of the medina, or walled-in old town. Riding in the back seat of an old Volkswagon bus, we watch intensely as our the driver comes dangerously close to the taxi in front of us while trying his hardest not to run over pedestrians walking into the streets hardly wide enough for our vehicle. Motorbikes speed by on either side of the two-way roads barely escaping this chaotic traffic. How they manage on the streets, I will never know, but I am awed by the fact that we haven't seen a single traffic accident although the people cross roads like city squirrels (of which Morgan is very afraid).

We made it to two 16^th century palaces have been turned into museums allowing tourists to wonder at the craftsmanship of the ancient buildings. Both palaces, Al Badi Palace and Palace Dar Si Said, were once inhabited by brothers and detailed in similar ways; with colorful mosaic tiles on the floors and walls and hand painted wooden ceilings. The moldings inside doorways were all made of stucco with hand-carved and -painted designs decorating them. Display cases held decorative weapons, jewelry, carpets and clothing; popular items from when the brothers still lived there with their harem.

The Saadian Tombs was our next stop. Because a sultan jealous he could not pray in the former palace’s mosque, the tombs were closed off for hundreds of years. Now, you can walk up to what used to be the mosque and gaze at each tomb that rises from the ground at heights depending on your importance in the family. The sultan’s tomb was obviously the highest. Surrounding this room was a courtyard filled with the tombs of all the family’s servants, also raised depending on favor. All three of these are must see places if you want to get the sightseeing experience of Marrakech. Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, the Islamic university from 1565-1960, has been reopened as a museum and worth a stop as well.

But, the real thrill was being led into a pharmacy of herbs and spices and where specials have an arsenal of containers holding different spices to remedy any ailment, dead rodents for black magic, and dried flowers to be used as perfumes.. The specialist hands you a menu of their stock with the different usages and lets you sample how rose oil helps relieve migraines or black seeds help clear sinuses and hay fever. We loaded up on herbal remedies to bring home.

The rug shop we went to next took us even further into the culture. Tea was served as the proprietor pulled out a plethora of rugs varying in size, color and weaving methods. A detailed explanation gave us insight into history of the Moroccan people. For most of time, their stories were not recorded, but passed down by mouth or symbolized in the different patterns and weaves in their rugs. For instance, tassels are only on one end of the rug, because like life, it will keep going on.

New York has Mulberry Street; Mexico City has the Flea Market; Marrakech has the Souks. The medina alleyways are lined with little shops to buy souvenirs for yourself and trinkets for friends back home. Famous for their work with cedar wood and iron casting, we bought a couple chess boards and boxes and a new teakettle, along with a few gifts. A drunken brawl erupted further into the alleys, and I, like an amateur, had already run out of pictures on my camera. This meant I also missed the 10+ Moroccans crowding around a small TV, furious that the USA soccer team had tied the match with Slovenia.

We kept going on and made it to New Town for dinner. This area, called Gueliz, named for the French church of the area, is almost a different world. Modernization has taken over and the robes and covers that characterize Old Town give way to tight dresses, neon lights and chic stores. This did not stop us from having a very Moroccan meal of Bar-B-Que’d chicken and beef parts, including the heart, which tastes remarkably like spare ribs or unfinished jerky. This place does not cease to amaze me!

It's Finally Happening!!!

Hello to everyone!

Armed with only our backpacks, my sister Morgan and I are finally ready to embark on our European adventure. Take-off is tomorrow at 12:40 p.m. to meet our mother and brother in Morocco for one week before heading to Germany to start a three week backpacking tour across Eastern Europe. We're kicking this off by flying out of Marrakech to Berlin on the 23rd, then trekking over to the Czech Republic, Austria, Hungary, Poland, Ukraine and a final stop in Amsterdam. While our plans are only tentative, we are certain this trip will allow us to see parts of the world in a unique and powerful manner while at the same time to bring us together as siblings, who are very different from each other, and to learn not only about ourselves but about our family's cultural and religious history stemming from eastern Europe.

Stay tuned because we will keep posting over the next month with photos, stories, and new insights as we explore our own backgrounds and the traditions of other communities -- that is as long as Morgan doesn't kill me before the trip is over.

Jason Suder

Fort Worth, TX

University of Colorado-Student/Photojournalist